Assembling is the fixing of computer component to form a complete system when bought in the market. When computer parts are brought together, they need to put them together and the process of putting them together is called “Assembling”.
Before you start building or refitting a computer, you will need some basic tools:
v 2 Phillips-head (cross-shaped) screwdriver
v Needle nose pliers
v Anti-static Wrist Strap
v A large level working space
v And a grounded wrist strap
An antistatic wrist strap with crocodile clip. Optional, but useful tools some other tools and equipment can come in handy as well, such as: Spring action parts grabber.
Electrical tape, Wire or nylon ties, Flashlight & preferably hands-free. A can of compressed air – useful when working with older parts that have collected dust.
Proper preparation is the key to a successful build. Before you begin, make sure you have all the tools you will need, secure a clear, well-lit workspace. Gather all the components you’ll be using and unpack them one at a time, verifying that everything that is supposed to be there is actually present. At this point you should leave the parts themselves in their protective anti-static bags, and assemble all the accompanying manuals. Find a dry, well-ventilated place to do your work. You should have plenty of light and if possible, you should choose an area without carpet on the floor, as carpet tends to generate a lot of static. An unfurnished basement is a good work location. Safety precautions are important for your own security. Please read the safety precautions thoroughly.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS BEFORE ASSEMBLING A PC
Static electricity is the biggest danger to the expensive parts you are about assembling. even a tiny shock, much too small for you to feel, can damage or ruin the delicate electronic traces, many times smaller than a human hair, that make up your CPU, RAM and other chips. It’s important to use your anti-static wrist strap to prevent damage to these components. Once you have the power supply installed in the case, clip the end of the wrist strap to the outside of the power supply. (Never plug your computer in while you are connected to it by a wrist strap.) This will ensure that you, the case and the power supply are all connected to a common ground, in other words there will be no inequality of charge that will allow a spark to jump from you to the case. It’s also helpful to have an antistatic mat to set the case and other components on. Nobody but you is at fault if you shock your components with static electricity. Make sure that you take the precautions in the previous paragraph to ground yourself from static electricity. (Note: if you really must work on a computer and haven’t got proper anti-static equipment, it is usually OK if you make sure that you don’t move about much; are not wearing any static-prone clothing; handle components by the edges; and regularly (once a minute or so), touch a grounded object.). The case metal of your PC’s power supply will usually be a suitable grounded object. As noted above, touch it every few minutes while you are working on your PC if you haven’t got a wrist strap. Turn off your computer and switch off your Power Supply at the wall before installing or removing any components – if power is flowing to components as they are installed or removed, they can be seriously damaged. In order to have a computer properly grounded, you need it plugged in at the wall but turned off at the power supply and at the wall. Never cut the grounding pin off your power cord. This “safety ground” stands between you and potentially lethal voltages inside the power supply. Be wary of sharp edges! Many lower-end PC cases have sharp, unfinished edges. This is especially so on interior surfaces, and where the case has been cut or punched-out. Use care and take your time to avoid cutting your hands. If your case has this problem, a little time with some sandpaper before you begin construction can spare you a lot of pain. Dismantling discrete electronic components such as your Power Supply or Monitor is dangerous. They contain high voltage capacitors, which can cause a severe electric shock if you touch them. These hold a charge even when the unit is not plugged in and are capable of delivering a fatal shock.
Start by putting your case down on your work surface, with the case door facing up, and open the case.
Find the motherboard standoffs (spacers) that should have come with the case. They are screws, usually brass, with large hexagonal heads that are tapped so you can fasten screws into the top. These hold the motherboard up off the case preventing a short-circuit. Set these aside. I/O Panel Shield of an ATX Motherboard Remove the I/O Shield from the back of the case where the ports on the back of the motherboard will fit, and put in the I/O Shield that came with your motherboard. If the power supply is in your way, take it out and set it aside (we’ll put it back in later). Now locate the screw holes on your motherboard and find the corresponding holes on the motherboard plate (or tray) in the case. The motherboard can possibly be damaged if you try to push it into position with the wrong set of standoffs underneath or when trying to use the wrong set of screw holes. Now fasten a screw through each of the motherboard screw holes into the standoffs underneath, after that plug other components.
CPU (CENTRAL PROCESSING UNIT):
The CPU contains the Socket, the heat sink and the cooling fan on top of the CPU, and the CPU’s heat sink and fan, are by far the most difficult steps you’ll have to complete during assembling. Read these instructions carefully, look at the parts, study the diagrams that came with your CPU and make sure you thoroughly understand what you are going to do before you try to do it. During the process, if anything does not seem to fit or make sense, put the parts down and look things over carefully before you proceed. Some operations, especially installing the heat sink/fan combination, can require pretty firm pressure, so don’t be afraid to push a little harder if you’re sure everything is set up correctly. Then attach the cooling fan which cools the CPU on top of the heat sink.
You will need to install your RAM (random access memory). Find the RAM slots on your motherboard; first push on the levers (white plastic in nature) on either side of the RAM slots, so that they move to the sides. Do not force them, they should move fairly easily. Put the RAM module in the socket. Line up the notch in the center of the module with the small bump in the center of the RAM socket, depending the type of memory you are using, making sure to insert it the right way. Push down on the module until both levers move up into the notches on the sides of the module. There should be a small “snap” when the module is fully seated. Although this does require a fair bit of force.
Installing your power supply is pretty straightforward, if it came with your case it was preinstalled and if you took it out earlier to get the motherboard in, now is the time to put it back. Otherwise a few moments of screwdriver work will get the job done.
Insert the card into a matching slot on the motherboard. If your motherboard has a built-in video adapter you want to use, i.e. onboard VGA forget installing the Video card, some of the video card came in PCI or AGP cards.
INSTALLING DRIVE JUMPERS:
The drive jumpers are in the middle (between the connector for the IDE cable and the power connector) but the location may vary. If you are using SATA drives. The jumpers usually have master and slave depending on the technician choice.
Installing the hard drive and optical drives. Old drives have PATA (Parallel ATA) connections which use a flat ribbion (IDE) cable for data connection. When using an IDE cable, plug the two connectors that are closer together into the 2 drives and the third to the controller or motherboard. Make sure the drive that you will install your OS on is the primary master. NOTE you can still install two hard disk and 1 CDROM and DVD ROM in a computer by setting the first Hard disk in PR. MAS. Second hard disk PR. SLA. And the CDROM SEC. MAS. And last One SEC SLA. This is the master drive on the Primary IDE bus which is usually the IDE 40 pin port on the motherboard labeled “Primary” or “IDE 1”.. Floppy Disk Drive Cable Note: IDE connectors are keyed, so it should be impossible to insert them backwards. However, it doesn’t require very much force to do this and it can destroy your motherboard. Look carefully at the drive and the cable connection before you try to connect them.
Some cables are attached to pins on a board (e.g. motherboard or extension card) In order to turn the computer on, you’ll need to connect the power button and while you’re at it, you might as well do the reset buttons and front panel lights as well. There will be a set of pins, usually near the front of the motherboard to which you will attach the cables that should have been supplied with the motherboard.
PREPARE FOR POWER UP
Some people will put power to a system several times during assembling and for experienced builders this may serve some purpose. For first timers though, it’s best to assemble a minimal complete system before powering up. Minimal because that way there are comparatively few potential sources of trouble, complete so that you can test everything at once and because the fewer times you have to put power to an open machine, the better, power on the system after every thing, If the fans spin, you can turn your attention to the monitor, what you are hoping to see is the motherboard’s splash screen, usually featuring the manufacturer’s logo. If you see this, have it in mind that you have done it.